Installation Guides

Wallpaper Removal Guide: How to Strip Old Wallpaper Without Damaging the Walls

Removing old wallpaper is frequently the part of a redecoration project that takes longest and causes the most frustration. The paper may have been hung decades ago, the paste may have hardened completely, and the plaster or plasterboard beneath may be in a condition that only becomes apparent once the paper comes off. Done correctly, wallpaper removal leaves a wall that is clean, stable, and ready for the next finish — whether that is new wallpaper, paint, or a skim coat. Done incorrectly, it leaves torn surface paper on plasterboard, gouges in plaster, and a wall that needs significantly more preparation than it would have if the stripping had been approached more carefully.

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Identify what you are removing

Before you start, establish what type of wallpaper is on the wall. The easiest to remove is a modern paste-the-wall non-woven paper — it usually peels dry in large sheets. Traditional paste-the-paper papers (often older and more likely to be in the room already) require soaking before they will release. Vinyl-coated papers have a waterproof face layer that must be scored or the top layer must be peeled off to expose the paper backing before soaking. Some older papers are textured with a hessian or grasscloth backing, which holds water differently and may need longer soaking. Also establish whether you are stripping down to bare plaster or plasterboard — plasterboard is significantly easier to damage during stripping than solid plaster, because the paper face of the board can tear and lift if over-soaked.

Tools and method

The core tools are a scoring tool (a wallpaper scorer or a coarse sanding block for vinyl papers), a pump garden sprayer or sponge for applying water, and a wide flexible scraper. A steamer is faster but introduces risk: over-steaming a plasterboard wall softens the face paper and can cause it to lift irreparably. For solid plaster walls, a steamer is a time-saver and is lower risk. Score the paper surface first to allow water to penetrate the paste layer — on a vinyl-coated paper, score the face to break through the waterproof coating. Apply warm water, leave for three to five minutes, then test with the scraper. If the paper is releasing cleanly, continue; if it is tearing, soak for longer. Work in small sections — a square metre at a time — rather than wetting the whole wall before starting to strip.

Dealing with stubborn paste

After the paper is removed, there is almost always a layer of dried paste on the wall. This must be washed off before redecorating — dried paste is not a stable surface for new paper or paint. Use warm water and a coarse sponge to scrub the paste residue, then rinse with clean water. Stubborn dried paste may need a proprietary paste-remover solution. Allow the wall to dry fully before inspecting the surface. Old walls frequently reveal damage, previous repairs, or uneven sections once the paper and paste are removed — budget time for filling and sanding before applying any new finish.

Preparing the wall after stripping

Once the wall is clean and dry, inspect it carefully. Plasterboard walls with torn face paper need sealing with a dilute PVA solution before applying a new finish — bare plasterboard is very absorbent and can cause paint to look patchy or new wallpaper paste to dry too quickly. Solid plaster walls may have hairline cracks, old nail holes, or soft sections that need filling before redecorating. A coat of size (dilute wallpaper paste) applied to a plaster wall before hanging new wallpaper helps the paste slip during positioning and reduces the suction that can cause the paper to bond too quickly. On a newly plastered wall, allow the plaster to cure fully — typically four weeks for a full skim — before papering.

When to call a professional

Some situations make DIY stripping impractical. Paper hung directly onto bare plasterboard without a lining paper is very difficult to strip without damaging the board face. Paper hung over multiple previous layers can take many hours per room. Paper in poor condition — blistered, flaking, or applied over a crumbling surface — can be destabilised further by soaking. In these cases, the cost-effective solution is often to hang a lining paper over the existing paper (if it is stable) rather than strip it, or to have a plasterer skim the wall rather than strip and prepare for papering. If you are unsure whether the wall will withstand stripping, start in an inconspicuous corner to test the condition before committing to the whole room.

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Common questions

What is the easiest way to remove wallpaper?

The easiest removal depends on the paper type. Modern non-woven papers often peel dry in large sheets — start at a seam and pull gently at a low angle. Traditional paste-the-paper wallpapers need soaking with warm water (using a sponge or garden sprayer) for three to five minutes before scraping. Vinyl-coated papers need scoring first to break the waterproof face layer, then soaking. Work in small sections rather than wetting the whole wall at once.

Can I wallpaper over old wallpaper instead of removing it?

Technically yes, but only if the existing paper is completely stable — no lifting edges, no bubbles, no flaking — and the wall can bear the additional weight and thickness. Most decorators recommend stripping rather than papering over, because old paper can conceal wall damage, and the seams of the old paper can telegraph through the new paper. If the existing paper is in very good condition and firmly bonded, lining paper hung horizontally over the top before the final paper is a more reliable approach than papering directly over patterned paper.

How long does wallpaper removal take?

A typical bedroom with one or two layers of standard paste-the-paper wallpaper on solid plaster walls takes three to six hours to strip, plus additional time to wash off paste residue and allow drying. A room with multiple layers, vinyl-coated paper, or plasterboard walls takes longer. The preparation work after stripping — filling, sanding, sizing — typically adds another two to four hours. Factor this into the overall redecoration timeline before committing to a start date for hanging new wallpaper.

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