Installation Guides

Wallpaper Removal Guide: How to Strip Old Wallpaper Without Damaging the Walls

Updated: Aug 2026

Removing old wallpaper is frequently the part of a redecoration project that takes longest and causes the most frustration. The paper may have been hung decades ago, the paste may have hardened completely, and the plaster or plasterboard beneath may be in a condition that only becomes apparent once the paper comes off. Done correctly, removal leaves a wall that's clean, stable, and ready for the next finish — new wallpaper, paint, or a skim coat. Done incorrectly, it leaves torn surface paper on plasterboard, gouges in plaster, and a wall that needs far more preparation than if the stripping had been approached carefully.

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Identify what you are removing

Before you start, establish what type of wallpaper is on the wall. The easiest to remove is a modern paste-the-wall non-woven paper — it usually peels dry in large sheets. Traditional paste-the-paper papers (often older) need soaking before they release. Vinyl-coated papers have a waterproof face layer that must be scored, or the top layer peeled off, before soaking. Older textured papers with a hessian or grasscloth backing hold water differently and may need longer soaking. Also establish whether you're stripping to bare plaster or plasterboard — plasterboard is far easier to damage, since the paper face of the board can tear and lift if over-soaked.

Tools and method

The core tools are a scoring tool (a wallpaper scorer or coarse sanding block for vinyl papers), a pump sprayer or sponge for water, and a wide flexible scraper. A steamer is faster but riskier: over-steaming plasterboard softens the face paper and can cause it to lift irreparably, while on solid plaster it's a lower-risk time-saver. Score the surface first to let water penetrate the paste — on vinyl-coated paper, score the face to break the waterproof coating. Apply warm water, leave three to five minutes, then test with the scraper; if it's tearing, soak longer. Work in small sections — a square metre at a time — rather than wetting the whole wall first.

Dealing with stubborn paste

After the paper is removed, there's almost always a layer of dried paste on the wall, which must be washed off before redecorating — it's not a stable surface for new paper or paint. Use warm water and a coarse sponge to scrub the residue, then rinse with clean water; stubborn paste may need a proprietary remover solution. Allow the wall to dry fully before inspecting. Old walls frequently reveal damage, previous repairs, or uneven sections once the paper and paste are gone — budget time for filling and sanding first.

Preparing the wall after stripping

Once the wall is clean and dry, inspect it carefully. Plasterboard with torn face paper needs sealing with a dilute PVA solution before a new finish — bare plasterboard is very absorbent and can cause paint to look patchy or paste to dry too quickly. Solid plaster may have hairline cracks, old nail holes, or soft sections that need filling first. A coat of size (dilute paste) applied before hanging new wallpaper helps the paste slip during positioning and reduces suction that can cause the paper to bond too quickly. On a newly plastered wall, let it cure fully — typically four weeks for a full skim — before papering.

When to call a professional

Some situations make DIY stripping impractical. Paper hung directly onto bare plasterboard without a lining paper is very difficult to remove without damaging the board face. Paper hung over multiple previous layers can take many hours per room. Paper in poor condition — blistered, flaking, or over a crumbling surface — can be destabilised further by soaking. In these cases, it's often more cost-effective to hang lining paper over the existing paper (if stable) rather than strip it, or have a plasterer skim the wall instead. If unsure whether the wall will withstand stripping, test in an inconspicuous corner before committing to the whole room.

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Common questions

What is the easiest way to remove wallpaper?

It depends on the paper type. Modern non-woven papers often peel dry in large sheets — start at a seam and pull gently at a low angle. Traditional paste-the-paper wallpapers need soaking with warm water for three to five minutes before scraping. Vinyl-coated papers need scoring first to break the waterproof face layer, then soaking. Work in small sections rather than wetting the whole wall at once.

Can I wallpaper over old wallpaper instead of removing it?

Technically yes, but only if the existing paper is completely stable — no lifting edges, bubbles, or flaking — and the wall can bear the extra weight and thickness. Most decorators recommend stripping instead, since old paper can conceal wall damage and its seams can telegraph through the new paper. If the existing paper is firmly bonded, lining paper hung over the top first is more reliable than papering directly over a patterned surface.

How long does wallpaper removal take?

A typical bedroom with one or two layers of standard paste-the-paper wallpaper on solid plaster takes three to six hours to strip, plus time to wash off paste and allow drying. A room with multiple layers, vinyl-coated paper, or plasterboard takes longer. Preparation after stripping — filling, sanding, sizing — typically adds another two to four hours. Factor this into your redecoration timeline before setting a start date for hanging new wallpaper.

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