Surface Preparation

Can You Wallpaper Over Tiles? A Practical Surface Prep Guide

Updated: Aug 2026

Wallpapering over tiles is possible and common in kitchens and bathrooms where removing old tiles would mean significant disruption. The two things that usually go wrong are a poor surface bond and an underestimated roll count — tiles add depth to reveals around switches and outlets, which catches people out. Here's how to prepare a tiled surface so the paper stays, and how to measure accurately.

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Flat, glazed tiles give the best adhesion when sanded

A smooth, glazed tile surface needs light keying with 120-grit sandpaper to give paste something to grip. Work across the whole surface evenly — not just the visible face, but also any exposed tile edge that the paper will wrap around. After sanding, wipe with a damp cloth and allow to dry completely. Unglazed, textured, or brick-effect tiles are harder: the texture creates air pockets behind the paper that tend to lift over time. For heavily textured tiles, a skim coat of tile adhesive levelling compound across the face gives a flatter substrate before papering.

Grout lines are the main failure point — fill them first

Grout lines are recessed, and paper bridged across a recess rather than bonded to it will eventually crack or bubble along the line. Fill flush with a flexible tile adhesive or a fine surface filler, feather the surface flat, and let it cure fully before papering. On a wall with wide grout lines — anything above 3 mm — consider a lining paper underneath the decorative paper. The lining paper bridges the lines, cures flat, and gives the decorative paper a uniform bonded surface.

Use a heavy-duty paste, not standard overlap adhesive

A tiled wall is a non-porous surface. Standard wallpaper paste is formulated for porous plaster and plasterboard, where the wall draws some moisture out of the paste and helps it cure. On tiles, paste stays wet longer and provides less initial tack. Use a heavy-duty or extra-strong adhesive — many manufacturers now make tile-specific or non-porous-surface wallpaper paste. Follow the manufacturer's open time instructions, as non-porous substrates require a longer paste-on-wall drying window before hanging.

Tile depth adds to reveal measurements around sockets and switches

Tiles are typically 6–10 mm thick. Electrical sockets and light switches are recessed to plaster depth — when tiles are on top, the socket surround now sits proud of the tile face, and the paper has to negotiate a deeper reveal to get behind the face plate. Measure the reveal depth at every socket and switch and add that to your strip measurement at those positions. This is one of the most common causes of running short when papering over tiles.

A lining paper underneath adds cost but significantly improves longevity

On a fully tiled wall in a kitchen or bathroom, a horizontal lining paper (cross-lined rather than hung in the same direction as the decorative paper) is worth the extra roll cost. It bridges grout lines, provides a consistent absorbency across the surface, and gives the decorative paper a substrate it bonds to rather than a mix of glazed tile and filled grout. Budget one roll of lining paper per 5 m² of tiled wall on top of your decorative paper count.

Check for damp or loose tiles before you commit to papering over them

Papering over tiles seals in whatever is behind them, so a damp problem or a loose tile gets worse hidden under paper, not better. Tap each tile before starting — a dull, hollow sound signals a debonded tile that will eventually let paper lift above it. Address any damp or loose section before papering, since fixing it later means stripping paper already hung.

Bullnose edges and external tile corners need a trim strip, not a straight wrap

A rounded bullnose tile, common at the end of a run, has a curved profile that flat wallpaper won't hug without creasing. Score and fold the paper carefully around the curve, or terminate it at the edge with a trim strip instead of forcing a wrap. Forcing paper over a rounded edge is where this kind of job often visibly fails.

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Common questions

Can you wallpaper directly over tiles?

Yes, with preparation. Sand the tile face lightly to key it, fill grout lines flush with a fine filler, and use a heavy-duty paste rather than standard wallpaper paste. A lining paper underneath improves longevity on large tiled surfaces. Heavily textured or badly adhered tiles are not suitable — the paper will eventually lift.

Does wallpaper stick to tiles without special glue?

Standard wallpaper paste has limited adhesion on non-porous surfaces like glazed tiles. Use a heavy-duty or non-porous-surface wallpaper adhesive for a reliable bond. Some people also prime the tile with a thin coat of diluted PVA before hanging to improve initial tack — allow it to dry to a tacky but not wet finish before pasting.

Do I need more rolls when wallpapering over tiles?

Not necessarily more rolls for the main wall area, but be aware that tile depth (typically 6–10 mm) increases reveal depth around sockets and switches, which can mean slightly longer strips at those positions. Measure carefully around any electrical fittings. Otherwise the roll count is the same as for a standard wall.

Is it better to remove tiles or wallpaper over them?

Removing tiles is more disruptive and costly, but safer long-term if there's damp, loose tiles, or heavily uneven grout. Papering over sound, flat, well-adhered tiles with proper prep is a reasonable shortcut for a cosmetic refresh, but it isn't a fix for a moisture problem — check the tiles first.

Will heavy paper stay stuck to tiles better than thin paper?

Not necessarily. A heavier paper needs more adhesive tack to hold its own weight, and a non-porous tiled surface already gives adhesive less to grip than plaster. A mid-weight vinyl or non-woven paper with a heavy-duty, non-porous paste performs more reliably than very thin or heavy natural-fibre paper.