Wallpaper Care

How to Clean Wallpaper: Maintenance by Finish Type

Updated: Aug 2026

How you can safely clean wallpaper depends almost entirely on the finish, not on how dirty it looks. A method that is completely safe on washable vinyl can permanently stain or tear a traditional paper-backed print. Check the finish first, then work from the gentlest method upward — dry dusting before anything wet, and always testing a hidden patch before treating a visible mark.

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Dust every finish first — it lifts most everyday grime on its own

A soft, dry microfibre cloth or the brush attachment on a vacuum, used in light downward strokes following the direction the paper was hung, removes the surface dust and cobwebs that account for most of the dulling on any wallpaper. Do this regularly regardless of finish — it is the one step that is always safe, and it often means the wetter methods below are never needed at all.

Vinyl and vinyl-coated papers can be wiped with a damp cloth

Fully vinyl or vinyl-coated papers have a water-resistant surface layer, so a cloth dampened with warm water and a small amount of mild, unscented dish soap can be used for marks that dusting does not shift. Wipe gently rather than scrubbing, work in the same direction the paper was hung, and dry the area immediately afterward with a clean cloth. Test any cleaning solution on a spare offcut or a hidden patch behind furniture first, since finishes vary between manufacturers even within the vinyl category.

Non-woven and standard printed paper should stay dry, or use a barely damp cloth at most

Standard printed paper and most non-woven (paste-the-wall) papers are not water-resistant, and a wet cloth can cause the print to smear, the paper to swell at the seams, or the surface to stain permanently. Use a dry cleaning sponge — the kind sold for soot and general wall marks — in a light dabbing motion for most marks. If a damp method is genuinely necessary, use a cloth that is barely damp, not wet, and always test on a hidden section first.

Textured, grasscloth, and fabric-backed papers need a vacuum, never water

Textured papers, grasscloth, and fabric-backed papers trap dust in their surface texture, and any liquid — even a barely damp cloth — tends to leave a water mark or flatten the texture permanently in that spot. Use a vacuum's soft brush attachment on the lowest suction setting, working gently over the surface, and leave stains to a specialist rather than attempting a home fix. These finishes are chosen for their texture and depth, and that is exactly what a wet cleaning method damages first.

Treat fresh marks immediately — they get harder to remove the longer they set

A fresh grease or food mark blotted immediately with a dry cloth, without rubbing it further into the paper, is far easier to remove or fade than one left to set for days. For a grease mark on a washable finish, a small amount of talcum powder or cornflour left on the mark overnight to absorb the oil, then brushed off, works well before any wet cleaning is attempted. Rubbing a fresh mark, on any finish, tends to spread it and push it deeper into the paper.

Avoid these products entirely, whatever the finish

Bleach, ammonia-based glass cleaners, and abrasive scouring pads strip the print layer or dull the sheen on almost every finish, including washable vinyl rated for scrubbing. Melamine sponges, sold as 'magic erasers', work by micro-abrading the surface, which removes ink along with the mark. Alcohol-based wipes, often reached for out of habit, can dissolve certain inks outright. If a label doesn't list a product as safe for that finish, treat it as unsafe and stick to the dry or mild-soap methods above.

Mould on wallpaper is a moisture problem, not a cleaning one

A cleaning cloth won't fix mould growing on or behind wallpaper — it's a sign of trapped moisture, usually poor ventilation, a leak, or condensation against an outside wall. Surface mould on a washable finish can sometimes be wiped with diluted white vinegar and dried immediately, but on a porous, non-washable finish, or if mould reappears, the paper is usually replaced rather than treated. Fix the moisture source first, or it returns within weeks.

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Common questions

Can you use water to clean wallpaper?

Only on fully vinyl or vinyl-coated finishes, and even then with a damp — not wet — cloth. Standard printed paper, non-woven paper, and any textured or fabric-backed finish should be cleaned dry, since water tends to smear the print, stain the surface, or flatten texture permanently.

How do you remove a stain from wallpaper without damaging it?

Identify the finish first. On washable vinyl, a mild soap solution on a damp cloth usually works. On other finishes, a dry cleaning sponge in a dabbing motion is the safer first step. Always test on a hidden patch, and treat fresh marks immediately rather than letting them set.

Is textured or grasscloth wallpaper safe to clean?

Yes, but with a vacuum's soft brush attachment on low suction only — never water or a damp cloth. These finishes trap dust in their surface texture and any liquid tends to leave a permanent water mark or flatten the texture in that spot.

Can you use a magic eraser or melamine sponge on wallpaper?

No — melamine sponges work by fine abrasion, which removes a layer of the print or finish along with the mark, even on washable vinyl. Use a dry cleaning sponge or a barely damp cloth with mild soap instead, and always test a hidden patch first.

How do you get mould off wallpaper?

On a washable finish, a cloth dampened with diluted white vinegar can lift surface mould if dried immediately afterward. On porous or non-washable paper, or if mould keeps returning, replacing the affected strip is usually more effective than repeated cleaning — and the moisture source causing it needs fixing regardless.

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